Thursday, December 15, 2016

Le Hung Cha, c'est quoi?


2015 printemps Da Yeh de Tse Ke Shan
Il n'y a pas que le Qing cha qui pose problème aux traducteurs automatiques. Ainsi, 紅茶 (Hóngchá) est traduit par thé noir ou par thé rouge! Cela devrait pourtant être évident que
Hóng désigne la couleur rouge et qu'il faut donc appeler ce thé rouge. Ce nom désigne tous les thés dont les feuilles sont entièrement oxydées.

La raison de cette confusion est historique. La classification du thé en 6 catégories de couleurs en fonction de leur degré d'oxydation ne date que du début du 20ème siècle. Elle fut l'oeuvre d'un chinois du Fujian, Chen Chuan (1908-1999). Auparavant, en Europe, on classifiait le thé soit par son origine, soit par la couleur de ses feuilles sèches. Et on voit bien ci-dessus que ces feuilles sèches sont noires.
La couleur de l'infusion n'est pas vraiment rouge non plus, mais plutôt orange foncée. C'est la couleur des feuilles infusées qui devient rouge avec l'oxydation totale.
L'Europe a connu le Hung Cha bien avant l'invention de la classification en 6 couleurs. Le premier thé rouge inventé fut le lapsang souchong (zhengshan xiaozhong) dans le village de Tongmu non loin de Wuyi dans le nord de la province du Fujian. C'était le thé de la noblesse européenne de la fin du 18ème siècle et du début du 19ème siècle.
A l'époque, la Chine avait le monopole du thé et de la porcelaine. Le thé était donc très précieux, ses feuilles étaient souvent conservées dans des boites décorées et munies d'une serrure! Seule la maitresse de maison en gardait la clé et pouvait autoriser son emploi.
Le thé rouge était donc un plaisir exotique réservé aux grandes occasions, un peu comme le caviar, le saumon fumé ou la bouteille d'un vin grand cru. La saison de Noël est donc parfaite pour en goûter les riches saveurs et ressentir sa chaleur naturelle!
L'oxydation totale de feuilles stabilise bien les arômes de ce type de thé. Il n'a absolument pas peur d'être post-oxydé, au contraire! C'est pourquoi c'est un type de thé qui se garde souvent bien et a même un potentiel de bonification et d'affinage. C'est le cas avec ce thé rouge de 2015 du cultivar Da Yeh Oolong de Tse Ke Shan sur la côte Est de Taiwan. Il a gagné en harmonie et douceur depuis l'an dernier.
La saison froide de Noël est l'occasion de redécouvrir le thé rouge de qualité, à feuilles entières, sans arômes artificiels. C'est si délicieux que cela peut se préparer comme un Oolong en gongfucha (avec une théière ou un gaiwan en porcelaine). Ou bien le thé rouge (sans sucre) accompagnera aussi très agréablement les petits gateaux de Noël. 
Le Hung cha, c'est la vie de chateau et les arômes de Noël!

Wednesday, December 14, 2016

Taiwan Oolong tea class

Daniel from Australia came for a one-on-one tea lesson. Since he's relatively new to loose tea, I chose to brew the following teas to guide him through the world of Taiwanese Oolongs:
1. Jinxuan Baozhong vs. Jinxuan Hung Shui Oolong. At the end of the 19th century, the tea industry was most active in the north of the island and Baozhong was the major tea produced. Rolling the leaves is a rather recent development and really took off with the mechanization of this process. Hung Shui Oolong became most popular in Taiwan after 1976 and the establishment of the Dong Ding Oolong tea competition. These 2 teas are very affordable thanks to the use of the Jinxuan cultivar (developed by the Taiwan Tea Extension Station in the early 1980s). With this comparison, we found out that Daniel prefers the fresh, flowery notes of a spring Baozhong. 
Jinxuan Baozhong vs Hung Shui
That's why we continued with a comparison of 2 more fresh Jinxuan Oolongs:
2. From Alishan and from Dong Ding. While the history of tea stretches over 1000+ years, it was long mostly green tea. The history of Oolong only started during Qing dynasty (18th century) and is just 300 years old. High mountain Oolong is a much more recent development from the 1990s! High temperature differences and a pure environment provide excellent conditions to preserve the fresh and fine aromas in the leaves.

Since Daniel really enjoyed the taste of Alishan, I brewed the following teas:
3. SiJiChun Oolong from Mingjian and Qingxin Oolong from FuShou Shan. After tasting 4 Jinxuans, and tasting the impact of the terroir and the roasting, it was interesting to taste 2 other cultivars in a fresh, low oxidization mode. The SiJiChun was flowery and pleasant, but it's the qingxin Oolong that knocked us off the ground and provided the most incredible and pleasant aftertaste. The difference between low elevation and high mountain (one of the highest) was loud and clear!
Zhuo Yan vs Concubine
 We finished the class with a comparison of 2 jassid bitten Oolongs:
4. A fall Zhuo Yan Oolong from Shan Lin Xi and this Concubine Oolong from Dong Ding. We had seen the difference between fresh and roasted Oolong. With these 2 Oolongs, we could see the color difference in the dry leaves and in the aromas between low oxidation (from the previous brews), medium oxidation and high oxidation. The Zhuo Yan has a lot of energy, while the sweetness of the Concubine is amazing. And the aromas are richer and more complex thanks to the higher oxidation level.

Taiwan Oolongs are refined and varied. There are so many dimensions to this type of tea (cultivar, terroir, oxidation level, roasting level, season...) I'm glad that I can help clarify all this and help find some delicious teas in the process!
Thank you for coming to attend my tea class, Daniel.

Monday, December 12, 2016

Le Qing cha, c'est quoi?

Hung Shui Oolong de 2003
Faites une traduction de 青茶 (Qīng chá) par Google et vous lirez qu'il s'agit de thé vert. Mais le thé vert se dit 綠茶 (lǜchá) en chinois. Et, mystère de l'informatique, quand on traduit 青色(Qīngsè= qing couleur) on obtient bleu! Or la couleur bleu, en chinois, c'est 藍色(lán sè). C'est quand on rajoute porcelaine à qing (青瓷), alors la traduction est enfin correcte: céladon!

Lorsque le Oolong fut inventé dans les monts du nord du Fujian, il était toujours torréfié pour bien se conserver. Or, ne trouvez-vous pas que ces feuilles sèches ci-dessus ont des nuances de bleues (avec un vert sous-jacent comme le montreraient les feuilles ouvertes)? Le Qing cha signifie donc Oolong, thé partiellement oxydé. C'est le nom qu'on emploie pour désigner la couleur technique de cette catégorie de thé. (Les 5 autres catégories sont blanc, vert, jaune, rouge et noir). 
La magie du Oolong, c'est de faire apparaitre cette couleur dorée, ensoleillée dans l'infusion de ces feuilles bleu/vert! Ces couleurs éclatantes nous font oublier la grisaille de l'automne... La couleur de l'infusion du Oolong est primordiale, nous dit souvent Teaparker. Observez-la bien pour déterminer si le thé est prêt, s'il est infusé trop longtemps ou pas assez. C'est la couleur, sa saturation, son éclat qui vous le diront.

Saturday, December 10, 2016

A Christmas tale

Once upon a time, a poor prince fled his country, because a rich and evil tyrant had taken the throne of his father. He left his castle in a hurry on a cold December night. Except some cloths, food and his toothbrush, he only took a tea set and a wooden Christmas figurine with him.

The poor prince headed east, traveling by night on dangerous roads in order to escape the army of the evil tyrant. A year later, the day before Christmas, he arrived in a dark and wild foreign forest. He had managed to keep his freedom, but was lost and starving. His only possessions were his tea set and the wooden wise man. He never sold them, even when it meant not eating for a couple of days and spending the night outside like now.

The trees in this forest very tall and old. The prince climbed up the tallest one to see in which direction he should go. From the top of that ancient tree, he could see some smoke rising from a hut a few miles further south. The air was particularly fragrant and pure up there. The big leaves of this tree seemed to absorb all these wonderful scents. Thus, the prince picked several hands full of them and put them in his bag.

It took him several hours of hiking through this thick forest until he reached the hut, exhausted and hungry. He heard the sobs of a young damsel inside the hut. He knocked on the door and asked why she was crying. "My father is old and dying. My elder brothers and sisters have long left us to find jobs in the city. I am alone to take care of him and I am afraid he won't make it through this night." The prince was moved by her tears and kind heart. He remembered that his mother would always prepare some tea for him when he was sick. "Let me prepare some tea for your father. Maybe it can ease some of his pain on his ultimate journey."

She agreed and let the prince set up his tea set in the hut. His tea jar was almost empty, though, and the prince feared he was giving his hostess false hopes. That's when he noticed a wonderful smell coming from the bag of fresh leaves he had picked on top of the old tree. They had oxidized during his journey. He dried the leaves the best he could next to the stove on which the kettle was heating the water. The fragrances of these leaves intensified further and filled the room with a breeze of warmth and hope.

The sun had set quickly. The fire in the stove made small cracking sounds piercing the silence from time to time. A few candles provided just enough light for him to see his tea ware. The prince brewed these leaves together with the last leaves from his own jar praying and wishing for a miracle.
During this Christmas night, the prince brewed these leaves ten times and more. The old farmer could barely drink the first cup, but quickly finished the next ones and then fell into a deep sleep. Then, his daughter also shared a cup with the prince and fell asleep next to her father. The prince continued to drink from the tea late into the night. As he was about to grab his last cup, he heard a voice coming from his wooden figurine.

"Prince, your prayers have been answered. Your teapot will be able to brew whatever feeling you wish to obtain. As long as you use it to do good, its magic will remain. Use it to do harm, and its this spell will be broken. Further, the spirit of the leaves you have drunk has granted you proficiency in the language of tea. A simple smell of leaves will be enough to tell you where they come from, when they were harvested, how they were processed and how best to brew them." 
When the prince woke up on Christmas morning, the damsel had already prepared a delicious breakfast for him and her father. The farmer had regained much strength and thanked the poor prince for saving his life. He offered him to stay with them as long as he wished and learn from him how to make tea from the wild trees in the forest. He accepted and worked hard with the tea farmer to learn everything he knew. Thanks to his gift of mastering the language of tea, they were able to choose the most suitable time to make perfect teas in each season. And when he brewed those teas with his teapot, he was able to make them so tasty and satisfying that they sold out every time.
A year later, the prince married the farmer's daughter who adored him not so secretly since she first met him. His fame and wealth grew rapidly. The king of these lands summoned him to court to see him perform his wonders. He submitted three teas to the prince to test his skill. "This first tea is a hairy Bi Luo Chun green tea that comes from the lake Tai. It was harvested at the end of March of this year. It was stored in a pewter jar. It is fresh as morning dew with the light aromas of delicate lilies. It further bears the scents of pipa fruits because several pipa trees are growing next to these bushes." The king's servants confirmed that this was correct.

"The second tea is a puerh that comes from an old tree growing on a steep cliff. It is exposed to rain, wind and sunshine. That's why it has deep, powerful roots to survive. This spring tea from last year was stored in your library, because I smell scents of paper. It's a tea you like to drink to stay awake while reading." The king laughed and congratulated him again for his correct observations.

"The third tea is an Oolong that comes from Taiwan's highest peak, Da Yu Ling. It was not harvested this spring, but last winter when the aromas are milder and the taste sweeter. This tea has scents of plum, because the jar it is stored in had been used to store plums in the past and hadn't been properly cleaned." This answer was quite an embarrassment at the court. The tea was supposed to be from this spring and only new jars were allowed to store tea. When the king ordered to see the jar, a servant confessed he had made a mistake and used a jar that had stored plums previously! Everybody was stunned and cheered the skills of the prince.   
The king enjoyed the tea brewed by the prince in his teapot immensely and asked him to work at the court with his wife and her father. The prince agreed and became the king's special tea maker. He would go with him on travels to visit other kings in neighboring countries. His teas would create deep bonds of friendship between the king and his neighbors.

One day, their travel took them back to the land of his ancestors. The old and rich tyrant had long forgotten about him and nobody recognized him in the capital. That was a unique opportunity to make a deadly tea for the ruthless dictator, avenge his family and bring freedom to his countrymen. This would break his teapot's magic, though, and the prince hesitated about what to do.

The moment of preparing the tea for both regents arrived. The prince chose a very old and rare puerh, preheated his teapot and then brewed it with all his heart, his passion, his years of exile and the blessings he received. When the tyrant tasted this tea, he fell silent and closed his eyes. Everybody waited anxiously for his reaction. After a minute or so, a tear coursed down his cheek followed by many more. The hate that had filled his soul had been vanquished by the love contained in this cup. As he opened his eyes again, he recognized the prince and asked everybody in the court to bow and hail their new and rightful king!

The prince ascended the throne and had many children with his loving wife. And they all lived happily ever after enjoying the real magic of tea!  

Thursday, December 08, 2016

Au sommet de Da Yu Ling

 
En ce huitième jour de l'Avent, je suis transporté au sommet de Da Yu Ling grâce à ces feuilles de printemps et grâce à ce magnifique Chabu de paysage chinois haut en couleurs. La représentation de Shan Shui (montagne et eau) est un grand classique de la peinture chinoise depuis la dynastie Sung (960-1279). Ses grands formats permettent qu'on s'y perde, comme l'homme se perd devant l'immensité de la nature, des montagnes ou de la mer.
Le thé et la peinture permettent de donner libre cours à son imagination et de voyager dans ce paysage tout en gardant de la hauteur. Monter au sommet permet ce recul et la vue dégagée.
Déguster un Da Yu Ling, c'est aussi atteindre les sommets de finesse et de fraicheur du Oolong de haute montagne de Formose. Pour éviter de voguer en eaux troubles, il est bon de savoir à quoi s'attendre en terme d'arômes et de qualité.
Ce voyage gustatif fut très réussi. Les grandes coupes chantantes en porcelaine accentuent la fraicheur et la finesse de cet Oolong. Et la persistance en bouche fut aussi longue et colorée que le paysage de ce Chabu!
Dégustez un bon thé! Noël approche...

The gift of feedback


Thanks to Teddy, I will be able to finish this article in no time. (The pictures are from my morning tea, a roasted Yancha brewed on a new version of this pine and bamboo Chabu.)

The following text is a feedback that Teddy sent me after receiving his latest tea order:

"The Da Pang Green Tea from Hsin Chu was everything I had hoped it would be and more. Having only ever heard of jassid bitten teas from Hsin Chu I was curious to see the difference between the flavors of the cultivar and terroir and what flavors come from the jassids themselves. Each brew entered the mouth fresh and creamy then left a soft, lasting sweetness reminiscent of the rich honey of oriental beauty."
I was especially excited for the Jade 18 Red Tea from Sun Moon Lake. About a year ago I tried a sample of another Jade 18 red tea from ZZZ and was blown away by the unique flavor of the cultivar. The first time I brewed it, the tea was very pungent, tasting almost like cough syrup. I did not anticipate the strength of the tea and had both overdosed and overbrewed the tea. Every cup after that first brew I have always loved the strong but gentle sweet and spicy flavors of this cultivar. The lotus qinghua teapot performed lovely with this tea! 
The last tea that I have had the chance to brew is the one I had been anticipating the most! Ever seen reading about the Zhou Yan oolong from Shan Lin Xi, I have been excited to enjoy the most interesting tea of the year. I don't think I can describe it any better than how you did on your website. The sweetness from the jassids, the gentle roast, and the soft strength of the high mountain all worked so well together to create an amazing cup of tea. The rich creamy mouthfeel reminded me of liquid caramel. Altogether it is simply an impeccable tea."
Thanks for sharing these notes with me, Teddy! I'm so glad that the teas lived up to your high expectations. Your satisfaction means is the best gift I can receive!

Tuesday, December 06, 2016

Sankt Nikolaus - Saint Nicolas - Santa Claus


Red tea from Yunnan 2012
Santa Claus is like tea: a previously local tradition that has morphed into a worldwide phenomenon! Sankt Nikolaus used to be a bearded priest who rewarded good kids and punished the naughty ones in Germany and in the East of France. Then, Thomas Nast, a German immigrant cartoonist in the USA, used this figure to draw the modern Santa Claus with red cloths and a white beard.

In this spirit, I brewed a red Qingxin Oolong grown in the high mountains of Yunnan, China. This cultivar comes from Taiwan, but its origin can actually be traced to the Aijiao Oolong cultivar in Fujian! Tea and Christmas traditions are internationally connected. And did you know that by 2030 China will become the largest Christian country in the world? Tea and Christmas will have more and more things in common! 

Monday, December 05, 2016

La coupe qu'on ne remarque pas

La fonction d'un accessoire de thé est d'être au service du thé et de remplir cette fonction de manière simple et efficace, en passant presque inaperçu. C'est le tour force de cette nouvelle coupe de thé en porcelaine fine.
Wenshan Baozhong bio torréfié de 2013
Pour la tester, je déguste cet excellent Baozong bio torréfié du printemps 2013. Il est très pur en bouche et supporte bien les longues infusions. Ses arômes de forêt subtropicale de Wenshan sont d'une extrême finesse.
Cette impression est soulignée par la finesse de la porcelaine et des parois de cette coupe. Elle est très légère (20 gr) et on la remarque à peine. Sa petite taille convient très bien aux petites théières et donc au gongfu cha! Sa couleur légèrement ivoire donne encore un peu plus de chaleur aux Oolongs torréfiés tout en permettant une très bonne transparence.
J'adore aussi l'ouverture de la bouche de la coupe. La lèvre inférieure s'y cale avec un plaisir suave. Forme harmonieuse et simple, matériau doux et fin, couleur blanche et pure. C'est la coupe qui se fait oublier et met le thé en valeur!

Sunday, December 04, 2016

Sunday tea class

What's the right teapot size for Wuyi Yan Cha?
Here's a familiar situation at our tea class. Every week, we take turns to set up a Chaxi. And then, when we are all set, we often find out that the teapot we've brought is not a good fit for the tea we're going to brew. So, Teaparker lends a different teapot to the student. Here, a tiny old zhuni Baotai to brew a WuYi Yan Cha.

Even after 13 years of weekly tea classes, I still feel there's much to learn. Today, for instance, we tasted a raw puerh mix: spring 2012 + fall 2013 leaves. It took considerable concentration to notice the 2 different aromas. It was easier to recognize the difference in the spent leaves. The spring leaves had a lighter hue and were thinner. It's always a good idea to look at the spent leaves to see if the leaves are all the same or if they are a mix of different teas!
Small is always right, even for 8 people!

Saturday, December 03, 2016

L'esprit du calendrier de l'Avent


Oolong de FuShou Shan
Revoilà venu le temps de l'Avent! En décembre dernier, j'avais adoré ouvrir chaque jour une porte de mon calendrier et infuser un bon thé dans l'attente de Noël. J'ai appris aux infos que cette tradition allemande se pratique de plus en plus en France. Autrefois, il s'agissait de petits chocolats, maintenant on trouve tous les produits (bière, cosmétiques...). Une grande enseigne française propose même un calendrier avec un sachet de thé différent chaque jour!
Mais s'il y a bien quelque chose dont j'ai appris à me méfier avec l'âge, ce sont les jolis emballages et les opérations marketing. La qualité du produit est rarement bonne quand prime les apparences. L'encre, le plastique et le carton sont bien plus simples et moins chères à produire que de bonnes feuilles de thé.
L'important est dans la tasse. Et la meilleure décoration celle qu'on crée soi-même, en famille ou avec ses amis.