Is roasting the same as 烘焙 (hōngbèi')?

As we approach the cooler fall season, let's focus on roasted Oolongs for some time. Yesterday, I've shown that there are 3 different roasting tools (bamboo basket over charcoal, bamboo basket over electric heat and electric oven). But independently from the tools, it's important to understand that for tea, when it's well done, 烘焙' (hōngbèi') means more than just roasting. "Roasting is a cooking method that uses dry heat, whether an open flame, oven, or other heat source. Roasting can enhance flavor through caramelization and Maillard browning on the surface of the food.(...) Until the late 19th century, roasting by dry heat in an oven was called baking." (Wikipedia)

'Strong' Yong Lung Hungshui Oolong, winter 2013

This definition also applies to what happens to Oolong leaves as they are placed over a dry heat. If it's done shortly and at low temperature, the leaves are simply dried. It's when heat and/or time is pushed higher/longer that the flavors start to evolve and intensify.

烘 (hōng) already means baking/roasting in Chinese and refers of the application of dry heat to produce more flavors.

The addition of the character焙 (bèi), which also means bake, implies a second purpose for this process...

With coffee, the roast happens within several minutes and is followed by a quick cooling. Rolled Oolong leaves are much smaller than coffee beans and it should be possible to roast them even faster. However, with Oolong, this process takes much longer (several hours to several days!) The reason is that tea leaves are more fragile. Only very few drinkers like the charcoal taste of very strong fire. Most drinkers want to preserve the character and freshness of the original tea (provided its quality was high to begin with). This is the goal of a successful 'hōngbèi'.

Every tea roaster has his own style and technique. But a slower process allows for more control. The leaves rest more and are less likely to get burned. (On the other hand, it's more labor intensive and costs more). Once the flavors have come out of the leaves and have turned sweet through caramelization (while preserving the core freshness), the second function of the hōngbèi is stabilize this outburst of new flavors and calm down and refine the taste.

This may sound very abstract and difficult to comprehend. The best way to learn how a successful 'hōngbèi' tastes is to experience it! That's why I have illustrated this article with pictures of my winter 2013 strong Hungshui Oolong from Yong Lung. It's a good example of an Oolong that has been 'roasted' with force AND harmony.

In my latest tasting notes, I wrote that the first taste is this Wuyi 'suan' (acidity). Then, the whole mouth feels dry, except for a salivation and sweetness at the tip of my tongue (and below). I smell dark chocolate, cashew nuts and ripe fruits. The aftertaste is very smooth and I feel a green freshness coming from deep inside. Despite using a porcelain gaiwan and not a teapot, I'm amazed at how balanced and sweet this Oolong tastes.

We'll explore another day how best to brew such hungshui Oolongs. But if you want to experience the smooth and rich character of excellent Hungshui Oolong, I recommend to use few leaves and a first long brew of a minute or 2 (after a good preheating).