Friday, October 11, 2013

Teapots on show, teapots for sale

Before I show you some Yixing teapots for sale, let's have a look at some of the pots I have photographed in the Yingge Ceramics Museum yesterday.

We start with these pieces from the Yingge Wares branding project. The museum in this ceramic town helps the local potters by promoting their wares in the museum. 
This kind of marketing may not seem part of the purpose of a museum. However, I think it's important that a ceramic museum in a ceramic town not just display objects from the past, but helps to connect the past and the present.
The museum also organizes competitions from time to time.
And exhibitions are not just focused on Yingge potters, but have an international reach (as I reported in the past about a fellow blogger from Switzerland).
The following pots are very creative, but I doubt they work well as teapots:
A video in the exhibition shows how to handle each pot.
If you have hot water, it may even be possible to iron some cloths with this next pot!
The shape I liked best is the celadon teapot with handle inspired by a Tang dynasty Changsha ever. This is a nice way to connect the past with the present: a classic shape that finds a new life with some adjustments (a longer handle and a different glaze).
We finish the tour of the museum with 2 curious teapots that look like wood:
Amazing imitations!
Now, I would like to present some modern Yixing teapots that I have for sale for (a little) less than 100 USD (each)! Their shapes are simple and classic.
We start with this black zisha Yixing: (Update: Sold)
Weight: 153 gr

Volume: 19-20 cl (190-200 ml)

I havd heard several different stories about how this black color is obtained, so I was curious to try one.

Due to a medium firing, it's rather porous and suitable for roasted Oolongs or puerh.
A duanni Shuiping teapot: (Update: Sold)
Weight: 104 grams
Volume: 11 cl (110 ml)
Single hole.

The clay seems mixed with some zisha clay to create a darker color. The result looks quite natural.

The firing temperature was rather high.
A hungni 'oil lamp' shape teapot:
Weight: 116 gr
Volume: 13.5 cl (135 ml)
Flat filter with 7 holes

Early 2000s. Gas fired at a high temperature.

This hungni clay is quite porous and also better suited for roasted Oolongs or puerh.
A zisha 'ju lun zhu' teapot: (Update: Sold)
Weight: 114 gr
Volume 14.5 cl (145 ml)
Medium fire

The big, flat, circular knob gives its name to this teapot. It's a design that's especially popular in Japan.

The clay is very soft. It was quite dirty when I received it and I spent a lot of effort cleaning it.
A small zisha Shuiping teapot: (Update: sold)
Weight: 67.5 gr
Volume: 8.5 cl (85 ml)
Single hole
End of 1990s teapot.

The walls of the cover are rather short. This small teapot is for one or two persons only.
This last teapot is a hungni Xishi. (Update: sold)

Weight: 83.5gr
Volume: 8.5 cl (85 ml)
High fired teapot
Single hole.
Tight: pressing on top of the knob makes the flow of water stop.
This hungni clay isn't very porous. It's suitable for more fragrant, unroasted Oolong or raw puerh.
First come, first serve! (I will update the article to indicate the teapots that are sold).

Tuesday, October 08, 2013

Autumn bliss


 This is my 2011 spring Hung Shui Oolong from Shan Lin Shi. After two years, the roasting has mellowed and the leaves seem to start to unfurl already.

Thanks to its high mountain origin (1500 meters), there's a very bright and shiny scent present in these dry leaves. There's also a natural sweetness that tingles my tastebuds!

I have decanted it for a week in this colorful and traditional Jingdezhen porcelain teajar.

 The phoenix flies gracefully amid the clouds on this jar.

What I find amazing are the qinghua drawings of fruit trees inside the jar! It must take a very skillful painter to paint through the opening of the jar!

This decoration is hidden from our view when the jar is closed. It's a luxury in the sense that they are inessential, unnecessary.
 
At the same time, these fruits are symbols for abundance. This feels like the right place to store good tea leaves!

I also like the simplicity of the qinghua drawing (blue on white) on the inside combined with the more extravagant multicolor decoration on the outside.
 A closer look at the surface of the jar shows us that the blue color was painted first, under the cover, and that the other colors are enamels that were painted on top, later on. You can even feel their added layer on top of the porcelain. This duocai (several colors) technique is traditional and made by hand.

While western decoration is done very precisely, with great detail and accuracy, the painting here is done much faster. This lack of perfection adds a unique personality to the jar.
 The fall remembers the spring as flowers turn red...
 The tea shines and tastes like a clear burst of lightly nutty ,sweet nectar. It leaves the mouth feeling clean and full of energy. The sweet aftertaste extends down the throat. I feel waves on my tongue, like a little massage. Very nice...
 Shan Lin Shi's very mellow and harmonious character is at display in this tea. Thanks to its charcoal Hungshui roasting, the tea has retained its freshness perfectly for over 2 years. Now the added power and flavors of this roasting melt more and more with the tea itself. This combination of different colors, characters (tea and fire) creates a unique, beautiful taste.
 The Yixing duanni teapot and the Dehua cup all combine their properties to extract the best flavors from this tea.
Such a tea makes you feel that even fall can be experienced like spring, a new beginning! Autumn bliss.

Monday, October 07, 2013

Une compétition de préparation du thé

La finale s'est passé à la mairie du Nouveau Taipei, ce weekend. 4 tables étaient en compétition à la fois, devant des juges et le public. Chaque round commençait et finissait par un gong et on y jouait toujours la même musique de guqin pendant le déroulement de chaque round. Vous remarquerez qu'il y a deux personnes par table: le préparateur et son assistant! Ce dernier aura pour tâche d'apporter le thé aux juges chargés d'évaluer l'infusion.
Cette compétition se juge sur 5 critères:
1. L'équipement, le chaxi (22%)
2. La technique d'infusion (20%)
3. L'évaluation du thé infusé (22%)
4. La politesse (20%)
5. La réponse à une question tirée au sort à l'issue de l'infusion (16%)
Ci-dessus, ce petit garçon et son papa ont remporté le plus de points dans ce tour. Habillés en réparateurs de voiture, leur chaxi a été jugé le plus original!
Il peut paraitre étrange qu'on puisse faire des compétitions de thé! Est-ce vraiment compatible avec l'esprit du thé? Personnellement, je pense que oui. Le thé n'est jamais pareil quand deux personnes le préparent. En règle générale, on peut toujours dire qui a fait le meilleur thé.

D'ailleurs, on en pratiquait déjà durant la dynastie des lettrés Sung. A l'époque, le critère du vainqueur était simple. Comme on fouettait le thé vert en poudre dans un bol, le gagnant était le dernier chez qui la mousse laissait apparaitre un trou (disparition de la mousse) dans le bol. Pour gagner, il suffisait donc de faire la mousse la plus consistante et riche. Cela implique que le vainqueur aura sélectionner un bol qui permette au thé de rester en mousse le plus longtemps possible, et qu'il aura bien maitriser la technique de préparation.
Les compétitions de la dynastie Sung disposaient donc d'un critère objectif et simple pour combiner les critères 1, 2 et 3 de cette compétition contemporaine! Et cela avait pour avantage de mettre l'accent sur la qualité du thé obtenu, point central de l'expérience.
L'événement de cette compétition nous montre la grande créativité et l'enthousiasme de ces jeunes buveurs de thé. Voilà une attitude que je ne peux m'empêcher de louer. Si cela leur donne satisfaction et plait au public, je n'y vois aucun mal et suis heureux qu'ils participent à faire connaitre le bonheur du thé par leurs efforts.
Mais un coup d'oeil sur le tableau d'affichage du détail des notes données aux participants explicite un problème qui saute à mes yeux dans ces chaxi et cette compétition. Les notes pour l'évaluation du thé infusé étaient les plus basses des cinq critères! Or, cela devrait être le point principal, le départ et l'aboutissement de toute apprentissage et connaissance du thé: savoir bien le préparer. Pour cela, il faut bien connaitre son thé, et bien savoir quels accessoires vont le mettre en valeur, le mieux exprimer son caractère.

Or, le thé était bizarrement au second plan de cette compétition. Malgré les introductions pour chaque Chaxi, je ne savais pas quel thé allait être infusé. J'ai du poser la question à une participante, après son tour, pour qu'elle me dise qu'elle a fait un Oolong de haute montagne (et elle ne m'a pas dit quelle montagne!)
Comme les formes siliconées des starlettes de la télé, cet étalage de beauté est vain et creux. Allo! On frise même le ridicule si l'on reste dans le paraitre quand il s'agit d'un sujet si profond et intime à la fois. Du coup, cette compétition/spectacle de thé sonne faux, artificielle. Cela divertit un instant: je partis après avoir vu 1 round et l'installation du suivant. Mais je doute que cela donne entière satisfaction aux participants.
L'idéal du Chaxi-mandala est de voir la beauté fonctionnelle au service du thé, et pas comme un simple prétexte. Les accessoires doivent s'harmoniser pour donner le meilleur des feuilles, pas simplement pour 'faire joli'.

Friday, October 04, 2013

Craving chocolate?

The major health benefit of tea, for me, has been the education of my palate to natural tastes and aromas. I used to love coca-cola when I was young, but not anymore. The artifical flavors taste too artificial for me now. As for chocolate, I must confess that I still crave some from time to time. Or do I crave something else that is combined with chocolate?

A simple experiment enlightened me. I purchased top grade black chocolates in a gourmet shop in Paris. They ranged from 70% to 100% cocoa. I am still savoring them piece by piece. However, whenever I buy a more regular chocolate, it 'disappears' within a day or two! This has confirmed that my craving isn't for chocolate, but for sugar! I have also realized that not all high cacao content chocolates taste the same. Some feel more natural, unadulterated than others. This is the pleasure I'm seeking more and more.
This leads me to industrial foods. It's obvious that I'm not finding any pleasure in them. Processed food contains so many additives for taste, flavors, preservation, color... that they taste unlike anything natural. High salt and/or sugar contents in those food make them also addictive and lead to over consumption.

Thanks to my 'good tea educated' taste buds, I don't want to eat this convenient junk. As a general rule, fresh fruits have replaced sweets in our home.

I already mentioned that I'm preparing my own soy milk for breakfast. Now I'm also baking my own bread! I'm using a bread machine. It's a great help to reduce the time needed to make the bread. In Taiwan, bakeries mostly sell soft and fragrant breads. Guess what they contain? Artificial flavors, preservatives, fat... But when I'm making my own bread, I know exactly what I put inside (flour, water, salt and yeast). And it tastes so good when it just comes out that I have to be careful not to eat too much. Even natural bread can be a little bit addictive and make you fat!

Tea helps me to live a healthy and happy life. But tea and natural foods are not the only reason why I have never felt as good in my body. My other health ingredient is regular exercise: I swim 3 times a week. This kind of exercise is a good balance to the long hours I spend in front of my computer. The lack of visits to the doctor since I have incrementally adopted this lifestyle has convinced me that I am on a good path.
And I love to drink tea before my swims, so that I still have the taste of tea in my mouth while I'm swimming!

Wednesday, October 02, 2013

Gueifei Oolong d'Alishan du printemps 2013


Cultivar: qingxin/luanze Oolong
Origine: Alishan (1500 m)
Récolté à la main le 20 mai 2013

Process: Hungshui Oolong (= oxydation un peu plus forte que pour un Oolong de haute montagne, et torréfaction moyenne pour conserver la fraicheur des feuilles). Il s'agit néanmoins d'un Gueifei, d'un Oolong concubine, car ses feuilles ont été croquées par ce petit criquet vert, le Jacobiasca formosana Paoli. Ses morsures créent, naturellement, une odeur mielleuse très particulière.

(Voir aussi mon compte-rendu de ce thé en anglais).
Le thé Oolong fut créé durant la dynastie Qing à Wuyi. C'est la dernière sorte, catégorie de thé à apparaitre. Il requiert plus de technique, de savoir-faire pour sa production que les thés verts, sans oxydation, ou les thés rouges (appelés noirs en Occident), complètement oxydés. En effet, le Oolong est à mi-chemin entre ces deux extrèmes. Il essaie de garder la fraicheur du thé vert, mais d'y combiner la douceur de l'oxydation. Et, en plus de cet équilibre à trouver, on y ajouta, avec la torréfaction, une dimension nouvelle de saveurs et d'after-taste. Voilà pourquoi le Oolong s'imposa rapidement comme le thé raffiné en Chine, et donna naissance au gongfu cha à Chaoshan.
Cet Oolong Gueifei est fidèle au caractère du Oolong. C'est une innovation relativement récente, une adaptation de la Beauté Orientale au Oolong de Dong Ding estival au départ. Ici, la nouveauté consiste à faire du Gueifei en haute montagne et au printemps! Il y a donc aussi un véritable souci de qualité, puisqu'il s'agit de feuilles de qingxin Oolong, en haute montagne et au printemps, la saison reine. De plus, pour favoriser les morsures d'insectes, le fermier n'aura pas utilisé de pesticides. Le degré d'oxydation est relativement bas afin de bien conserver la fraicheur de ces feuilles. Mais c'est aussi un Oolong traditionnel, car il a été torréfié en douceur, au charbon de bois.
Ces feuilles ont bénéficié de beaucoup d'attention et de savoir-faire de la part de leur producteur. La moindre des choses est de leur rendre la pareille: choisir le moment opportun, les accessoires adaptés, créer une ambiance raffinée et donner tout son attention.
Des infusions parfaites, magiques, ce n'est pas tous les jours que j'en fais. Je suis heureux si j'arrive à en avoir une par semaine! Mais ce qui est certain, c'est qu'elles n'arrivent jamais par hasard. Pour obtenir un nectar concentré, pur, profond, doux et émouvant, il faut de la préparation en amont et être présent entièrement lors de l'infusion. C'est facile à dire, mais difficile à accomplir! 
Bref, c'est ce qui m'est arrivé avec cet Oolong! Sachant que ce serait un challenge, je me suis concentré et appliqué. Et je fus récompensé d'un thé puissant et fin, fleuri et mielleux, doux et long, pur et savoureux, frais et moelleux.
Sa longueur en bouche se révèle vague par vague, éclatant et brillant.

Friday, September 27, 2013

2013 Spring Organic Concubine Oolong


Cultivar: Luanze (qingxin) Oolong
Origin: Feng Huang (Dong Ding), Taiwan
Elevation: 700 meters
Harvested by hand on April 2nd, 2013
Process: Organic plantation, high oxidized, rolled and medium roasted.

Competition brewing with 3 grams for 6 minutes.
This spring version is very similar in quality and aromas than the winter 2011 Concubine (which it replaces in my selection). The major impact of having now a spring harvest instead of a winter harvest is that the brew is more fragrant. The scents of red, exotic and ripe fruits coat the mouth and seem to never leave. The cold scent is all honey.
The most amazing about this tea is its natural, mellow mouthfeel. Even after 6 minutes, there's no uncomfortable bitterness or astringency. This tea tastes sweet and smooth. And, despite the strong flavors, the mouth remains clean and bright. It feels like a sunny afternoon in these tea fields. A taste of nature.

It's feminine and pure like the first kiss of a countryside gal. The pleasure is guilt free (there are no artificial flavors or sugar). It's a real taste. Nothing to be ashamed of, nothing to regret. I love this rich, ripe honey-dipped fruity taste. It's also warm and comforting in its aftertaste. And again, amazingly natural.
The mature leaves are almost completely oxidized. The buds are less oxidized and we can see signs of insect bites confirming the lack of pesticides. This creates this incredible deep taste and fine fragrances. The leaves are not as uniform and neat as usual. This is another sign that this tea field is managed in an organic, natural manner. And it feels!
Below, I have compared three versions of this tea:
Left, the 2011 winter version stored in my qinghua jar.
In the middle, the 2011 winter version stored in a vacuum sealed foil.
Right, the 2013 spring version stored in a vacuum sealed foil.
The color intensity is very similar when the tea is stored in the plastic foils. The teas are very similar. The winter version tastes sweeter, while the spring is more fragrant.
The leaves stored in the porcelain jar produce a much redder color. The tea has evolved and post-oxidized faster in the jar. This results in a deeper and broader aftertaste. I have kept the leaves in this jar for only 6 months approximately.

This comparison confirms that this Concubine Oolong is also a very good candidate for aging. The roasting hasn't turned the leaves stiff, hard, but has dried them sufficiently to improve with time.